Hungry City

The Lowdown: Bulgarini Gelato

2007-04-14T14:14:00.000-07:00

Thursday's LA Times Food section sent us trekking up to Altadena yesterday, to the brand new location of Bulgarini Gelato at the corner of Lake and Altadena, in the Rite Aid shopping center. In fact, we were so thrilled with the description of Bulgarini's fresh-made fruit ice creams that we neglected to see that their grand opening wasn't until today. So imagine our disappointment when the shop was closed up tight with only the window washer sparkling up the glass for today's big fete.

We weren't the only ones who arrived to a closed shop, but we were the only ones who stayed to lick our wounds in the newly created outdoor space. But when owner Leo Bulgarini peeked outside to see what our sad quartet was doing and heard that we'd driven all the way from Echo Park, he invited us inside for a quick scoop, actually 4.

After tasting about a dozen flavors, we settled on the amazingly flavorful and nutty pistachio mentioned in the Times piece, a wonderfully sweet and tart blood orange granita, a subtle blueberry and, of course, chocolate. It was all delicious, and the granita was simply the best i've had. (Sorry there are no photos, but the gelato was gone before we thought of memoralizing it.) While he was obviously in a hurry to transport some gelato to his other locations at the Laemmle Playhouse theaters and the Pacific Asia Museum, both in Pasadena, he didn't rush us and graciously served the father/daughter pair that snuck in behind us before locking the doors and rushing off with buckets of gelato to his other locations.

For those of you who are heading up there today for their grand opening--and undoubtedly long lines--it's worth it. Buona fortuna Bulgarinis on your new business. We'll be back. Soon.

Bulgarini Gelato
749 E. Altadena Dr.
Altadena, CA 91001

Wed-Sun: Noon-8 p.m.

The Lowdown: Tokyo Delves

2007-03-29T13:34:00.000-07:00

The St. Sake Bomb Celebration

Tokyo Delve’s is the Carlos and Charlie’s/Senor Frog’s of sushi bars. The sushi is terrible, I wouldn’t even waste my time with food there, but you’re not going for the sushi. You’re going for sake bombing.

Tokyo Delve’s is known for its sake bombing and they do it right! You can get a gallon keg of Sapporo for your table and the waiters keep the sake coming. The waiters and sushi chefs will come to your table and lead you in the great cheer (“When I say sake, you say bomb! SAKE! BOMB! SAKE! BOMB!”), which ends with them pounding on the table until your sake falls from its precarious perch on your chopsticks into a glass of Sapporo.

You will be greeted with thunderous cheers the minute you walk in the door. You will dance on your chairs. You will conga with your neighbor tables. You will play trivia and win stupid t-shirts. You will drink sake.

A fabulous place to celebrate your birthday, and oddly enough, St. Patrick’s Day and the entire month of March, known as the St. Sake Bomb Celebration. So you've got exactly 3 nights left to celebrate—or 365, depending on how you look at it.

Any time you go you’ll be sure to love the kitschy atmosphere and you can’t help but have a good time—but don't eat the sushi!

—Kaelin Burns

5239 Lankershim Blvd.
North Hollywood 91601
(818) 766-3868

Raves: The Bishop Coffee and Gourmet

2007-03-21T13:56:00.000-07:00

When I discovered the Bishop in early 2006, I was thrilled to have a coffee place near our South Park offices. I hated walking up to 7th and Fig and the FIDM-adjacent Fusion Cafe just doesn't cut it. Sadly, the new Starbucks at 11th and Grand gets more of our business these days, simply due to its close proximity, but my heart is at the Bishop. Why? 'Cause they make me happy—and make sandwiches to order.

Of course, their cold cases have pasta salads and pre-made sandwiches and, if you get there at the right time, that wonderful chicken curry. But sometimes you just want something, you know, special. That's when Suze pops in and says, "Can we just make you a sandwich?" Mine today was turkey and pesto on a croissant. Ymmm. It hit the spot--which is why there's no photo to attach. Sorry 'bout that.

Oh, did I say they make a mean cappuccino, too? And open early--and late!

The Bishop Coffee and Gourmet
816 S. Grand Ave.
Downtown 90017
(213) 239-0411

Only 172 Days 'til the Fair

2007-03-18T21:40:00.000-07:00

I love the LA County Fair. Way more than any adult should. I wait for it all year. As a kid, I would anxiously await those "Ya gotta see it to believe it..." jingles that would air on KTLA weeks before the big event, when LA temps were hot and dry and you knew Pomona would be scorching, but didn't really care.

Then it was about the food--mostly anything involving sugar. Some things never change. Like a Dodger game, you gotta pace yourself. I'm kinda fond of food that comes on a stick, so we generally start with a Hot Dog on a Stick and a lemonade. Why it tastes so much better at the Fair, I don't know, but it's the only place we belly up to the little shack and watch them deep fry those dogs. Then after scoping out the exhibit buildings, we'll head over to the gingerbread house for some fresh-made gingerbread cake, which goes really well with the icy-cold fresh-squeezed milk sold outside the cow barn.

After a little more nosing around, maybe a ride or two and a visit to the Garden Pavillion, it's time to check out the food stand that has the newest food concoction imported from some state fair in the midwest, often Minnesota. I'm sure you've heard of them—they're almost always deep fried—the deep-fried Twinkie, the deep-fried Oreo, the deep-fried Snicker's bar. This year it was the Krispy Kreme fried chicken sandwich. Yep, a deep-friend chicken breast smothered in cheese and tucked inside a Krispy Kreme glazed donut. All this, and a side of honey to go with it—in case you weren't already in a diabetic coma. A bit fearful, we decided to split this one three ways and, I have to admit, it was a lot yummier than it sounds. I'm not sure I'd want a whole one, but a couple bites were awfully tasty.

A couple of glasses at the wine pavillion and some zucchini on a stick and it was time to head home. We always promise to go back a few days later but as Angelenos, the schlep out to Pomona is even more daunting the second time. So we count the days until next year. Which is now, this year.

Coca-Cola, hecho en Mexico, vendido en Costco!

2007-03-14T09:15:00.000-07:00

Yeah, we all know they changed the recipe on us years ago. It wasn't hard to figure out. One day it just didn't taste so good anymore. I stopped drinking it. Then, a few years ago, I was in Zacualpan, a stunning hilltop mining town south of Mexico City and it was hot. Too hot for cerveza, so really, really warm. I get a Coke. It's in a bottle and it's amazingly delicious. Finally I understood what John at Galco's has been talking about all those times I was stubbornly filling my cart with spicy ginger ales. Yes, it's the real thing.

You see, Mexican Coca-Cola is made with cane sugar, while the stuff we get here is made with corn syrup. A small difference, the folks at Coke thought, but a tasty one.

Mexican Coke has been around the states for a while and, if you know where to look, readily available—but pricey. Until now. Costco has it for just under $18 for a 24-bottle case. Get it while you can—summer's coming.

The Lowdown: The Spanish Kitchen

2007-02-27T14:26:00.000-08:00

In Los Angeles, the land of superb authentic Mexican cuisine, The Spanish Kitchen stands out as one of the best gourmet restaurants. It’s dimly lit, but warm interior, is decorated with dark woods, leather, ornamental iron-work, and soft red lights. Guests are invited to sit down, get comfy and enjoy any of the panoply of tasty dishes they’ve got to offer.

Like any good Mexican restaurant, the bar has a lengthy menu of top shelf tequilas, for those that can handle it, and offers a variety of dressed up margaritas, such as pomegranate and prickly pear. Salsa and chips arrive at the table right away, and the guacamole that can be ordered to go with them is delicious! (What kind of Mexican restaurant would it be if it had mediocre guac?)

For starters, there’s the sweet corn tamale. I shared it with three other people as an appetizer, but it was so delicious we wished that we had all ordered our own! Their fajitas are a generous portion of meat served in a sizzling hot pan with peppers and onions, tortillas and fixings on the side, so you can make your own at your table. I ordered the Mexican barbeque pork, cooked in a banana leaf and served with tortillas to wrap it up in- so tender and flavorful!

While we were too full to stick around for dessert, they offer traditional vanilla flan, which I’m sure would have been just as good as the rest of our meal. The Spanish Kitchen also has “Enchilada Mondays”, boasting fourteen different enchiladas to choose from. “Tequila School” classes beginning in June. Intrigued? Then check The Spanish Kitchen out at…

—Kaelin Burns

826 N La Cienega Blvd
(at Willoughby Ave.)
Los Angeles, CA 90069
(310) 659-4794

California Named Top Spot for Dining-Related Travel

2007-02-23T13:51:00.000-08:00

But, of course.

The Lowdown: Crazy for Gelato

2007-02-08T14:23:00.000-08:00

Gelato cafés have peppered the Los Angeles area over the years, but the fad-factor seems to have resurged as lines inside them have started snaking out the doors again. What makes gelato different from ice cream? many would ask.

Beats me. But trusted sources (namely the World Wide Web) have revealed that the difference between gelato and ice cream is that gelato has less fat and no air added, which accounts for its rich creamier taste and denser consistency.

For the moment, it seems ice cream aficionados are jumping ship and climbing on board the gelato craze, but whether it’s due to preferences in taste or the more colorful and sophisticated aesthetics of a gelato cafe as opposed to that of an ice cream parlor remains a mystery. What also remains to be seen is whether ice cream can reclaim its crown as the king of frozen desserts from the cold clutches of gelato.

You can see evidence of the phenomenon off the Third Street Promenade in Santa Monica. Brightly lit, colorful, and inviting stands Angelato Café. Through its glass face, you can see dozens and dozens of flavors neatly lying side by side in the long cooler that stretches across the entire café. There are over 100 flavors, and in the smorgasbord you’ll find everything from tequila lime to cola float and even buttered popcorn!

With the staggering options you’re faced with, you could spend a good half-hour alone balking at the glass case and deciding what to order. In fact, quite a few people do, which partly accounts for Angelato’s crowded storefront and long lines.

So if you have nothing to do for a good while, and especially if you haven’t had the pleasure of indulging in gelato yourself, stop into a gelato café and decide for yourself if it lives up to the hype.

To find out more about the history of gelato visit this site http://www.angelatocafe.com/history.htm

—Jane Rothstein

Angelato Café
301 Arizona Avenue
Santa Monica, 90401
Phone (310) 656 - 9999

Our Hungry? Hat Off To Accommodating Manager, Part I

2007-01-30T14:50:00.000-08:00

In a town like LA where the reservation list at a restaurant can read like an A list for a movie premiere, how is a regular Angeleno supposed to get good service at a quality restaurant?

The answer lies in a not-so-little Italian restaurant in Pasadena—Il Fornaio. At Il Fornaio, the homemade pasta and innovative twists on classic Italian dishes, like Butternut Squash Ravioli and Gnocchi, in combination with a constantly changingregional menu and wines that pair perfectly means that most nights, especially the weekends, they are fully booked. But for being a busy and- dare I say it?—chain restaurant—the food and customer service is that of a family-owned restaurant.

This largely due to the he manager, Ricardo Capor, an attentive gentleman who learns his regular customers quickly and treats them accordingly. Just the other day, my parents went in for dinner. He greeted them with a kiss on each cheek and whisked them off to a table sans menus.

"Tonight," he said, "I will be serving you, so you won't be needing menus." Capor personally picked out each of the seven courses, cheese all the way through to dessert, paired them with wines, then delivered it to their table and chatted with them about each course as they tasted his chef's culinary creations. And the price of this personally guided tour through the culinary regions of Itay was no more than a regular dinner entree. They left more than satisfied, both with the food and the above par service, guaranteeing they'd be back soon.

It just goes to show that loyalty to a quality restaurant with a manager like Capor, who takes great pride in the food his restaurant serves and enjoys sharing his enthusiasm with his customers, makes for an amazing dining experience… and you won't even have to name drop!

—Kaelin Burns

Johnnie's Broiler Demolished!

2007-01-08T16:28:00.000-08:00

Another one of LA's historic buildings--one of the last Googie-style diners we had left--bit the dust this weekend--and apparently without a permit.

Is it time for mandatory jail sentences for those who tear these irreplaceable buildings down before they can be saved? You drive by and decide. Then take a detour to the historic McDonalds's, also in Downey, and see what a little bit of smart preservation can do.

Johnnie's Broiler
7447 Firestone Blvd.
Downey, 90240

McDonald's
10207 Lakewood Blvd. (at Florence)
Downey, 90240
(562) 622-9248

The Lowdown: Spitz

2006-12-30T17:35:00.000-08:00

Spitz proudly claims to be the Southern California home of the Doner Kebab. Yeah, hat may not mean much to you now, but it sure will soon after you make a trip over to the Eagle Rock restaurant and try one of these amazing sandwiches.

Bryce Rademan, co-founder of Spitz, ate his first Doner Kebab in 2005 on a study abroad trip to Madrid and immediately knew he had discovered something amazing. He quickly became friends with the restaurant’s owner who taught him how to make the Kebab. Taking these lessons back with him to the States, Bryce teamed up with fellow student Robert Wicklund and introduced the Doner Kebab to Eagle Rock. As an Oxy student, I am forever thankful, and pretty sure you will be too after trying just one bite.

A Doner Kebab might be thought of as a fusion of a gyro with a panini, though that description doesn’t come close to capturing the essence of this unique sandwich. The meat, whether lamb and beef or ground chicken, is slow roasted in vertical broilers to retain its savory juices and then cut off in thin strips. Stuffed into toasted focaccia bread, it is then topped with fresh veggies, hummus, cool tzaziki sauce and spicy chili sauce for added flavor.

Still hungry? Spitz also offers a number of delicious sides to compliment its Doner Kebabs. Sweet potato fries tend to be the favorite, but their regular French fries and fried pita strips are certainly not bad choices either. Salads are a tasty alternative for the health conscious.

But be sure to leave a little room for dessert (really, who could resist anyway?!). The gelato served at Spitz has been called “the absolute best ice cream in the universe” by Time Magazine-and, apparently they know what they’re talking about. With flavors including everything from Pistachio to Pomegranate and from Tiramisu to Burgundy Cherry, I can’t seem to get enough. And, since the gelato is lower in fat than regular ice-cream, I don’t have to feel guilty for ordering seconds.

The atmosphere at Spitz keeps you lingering long after the last bite of gelato is gone: The constant flow of customers, ranging from Occidental College students to young families, makes for excellent people watching from any of the restaurant’s outdoor or indoor table. So, stop by and stay a while. Both you and your stomach will leave happy.

—Tessa Basford

2506 Colorado Blvd., LA 90041 (parking in lot and on street)
(323) 257-5600

Tues-Sat: 11 am-10 pm
Sun: 11 am-8 pm

RIP: Netty's

2006-12-16T11:56:00.000-08:00

Netty's restaurant is now part of Silver Lake history, closing its
doors on December 16, 2006.

This treasured eatery was founded in 1987, before Silver Lake was a
hip happening place. Netty and her former partner Luis Moreno
followed their dream to serve interesting comfort food in a gracious
but casual California patio setting. Stopping by for the Blackened
Chicken sandwich with the creamy cucumber salad on the side, or the
Drunken Shrimp became a part of local life. What comes next? After a
breather, Netty will begin renovation of an old market in Joshua Tree
and in a few years open it as Sun Fair Market and Cafe. Supporting
sustainable agriculture will be the focus. For those of us who can't imagine life without her delicious eggplant sandwich, she is also planning a
cookbook of Netty's memorable dishes so fans can continue to savor
these good eats at home. Netty says Silver Lake will be left in good
hands with Chefs Gloria Felix and Elizabeth Belkind when they open
their own restaurant, Reservoir, in the spring, where Netty's used to
be.

The Lowdown: Pinkberry Demystified

2006-11-30T15:55:00.000-08:00

Out Pinkberry-ing Pinkberry: Cracking the “Crack Berry” Code

It ain’t pink, and it ain’t made of berries… but somehow, you want it—even though they’ve lied to you.

If you don’t know what I’m talking about, you haven’t been on the stretch of Huntley Drive just south of Santa Monica Boulevard in West Hollywood, where parking has become impossible due to people swarming over in crazed droves to Pinkberry Yogurt—purveyor of “all natural frozen yogurt.” Sherry Hwang, owner of the explosively popular yogurt shop has recently expanded her business, opening 30 new branches in the last few months. All this is astounding when you realize that their entire product line consists of yogurt in 2 flavors: Original, and Green Tea.

I had my first taste of Pinkberry’s a month ago when a one of the shops opened in Westwood. As I eagerly watched them dispense the yogurt into a Styrofoam cup, I found myself wondering in anticipation what exotic and mind-blowing flavor Mrs. Hwang had stumbled upon.

Imagine my disappointment when my first spoonful failed to produce instant euphoria! Instead, the tangy lactose flavor struck me as instantly familiar.

A popular type of drink in all East Asian countries is the plain yogurt-based beverage. How else do you think whole nations of lactose-intolerant Asian people get their drinkable calcium (yogurt is generally easier to digest than milk)? It comes in bottles, in cartons, as concentrates, in powder form…. and it’s terribly commonplace. To me, it tasted as if Ms. Hwang had poured a batch of this into a frozen yogurt maker, and I couldn’t see how anyone of an Asian background wouldn’t figure this out this instantly.

And I was right! Pinkberry’s wild popularity, paired with its easily replicable yogurt recipe, immediately spawned many imitators—many of them Asian. As an aside: Rumors also began circulating on the internet that the Pinkberry proprietor had stolen the recipe from a hard-working Korean family that owned a shop called Red Mango. In most places, you’ll see it advertised as “natural yogurt” or “Italian yogurt.”

So now, when you have a hankering for “Original” flavored frozen yogurt, you have the option of visiting Fiore Yogurt in Little Tokyo, Kiwiberri (multiple locations), or a dozen other imitators all over Koreatown who have cracked the Pinkberry code with no effort at all.

But for my money, the place that finishes what Pinkberry started is Beach Berries on the corner of Main and Walnut in Downtown Huntington Beach. The yogurt is the same flavor (of course), but the texture is noticeably smoother. Also, although Pinkberry offers sugary cereals and candy as toppings in addition to canned and fresh fruit pieces, Beach Berries stays true to the “natural” theme by only offering granola and fresh fruit – lovingly diced into darling little cubes—as yogurt toppings.

Time will tell if “natural” frozen yogurt is a passing fad, but you can bet there are about a hundred Asian yogurt-shop owners out there who are banking on the hope that it isn’t!

—Jennifer Chang

www.pinkberry.com

Pinkberry
868 Huntley Dr., WEHO, (310) 659-8285
3300 W. Sixth St., Koreatown, (323) 730-9889
7123 Melrose Ave., Los Angeles, (323) 935-2958
10911 Lindbrook Dr., Westwood, (310) 208-3620
236 N. Larchmont Blvd., Midtown

Kiwiberri
8474 W. Third St., Los Angeles, (323) 951-0675.

Fiore
134 Japanese Village Plaza, Little Tokyo, (213) 626-0806.

Beach Berries
300 Pacific Coast Highway
Huntington Beach, CA
(714) 960-7988

Ewwww. Tell Us It's Not So!

2006-11-30T11:28:00.000-08:00

YUCK.

In checking out one of our favorite city sites, LA Observed, we came across a link regarding one woman's lawsuit against Kraft for selling guacamole that has less than 2% avocado content. "What else could it be," you ask?

According to a piece in today's Times business section, "Like much of the prepared guacamole sold in supermarkets, Kraft guacamole is essentially a whipped paste made from partially hydrogenated soybean and coconut oils, corn syrup, whey and food starch. Yellow and blue dyes give it the green color."

Send your favorite guacamole recipe to editor@hungrycity.com, along with your mailing address and the first 5 recipes we get will get a free copy of our new edition of Hungry? Los Angeles. While there may be some lousy guacamole in LA, at least we know it's made from avocados!

Be Cool, Give Thanks

2006-11-22T14:17:00.000-08:00

If you're reading this post, you're probably looking for a great place to eat. We've got lots of suggestions and hope you find exactly what you're looking for, but please remember (and not only at Thanksgiving) the people who don't have enough to eat.

Check out the Second Harvest website to search for a foodbank in your area and give a little. You'll be glad you did.

—Your friends at the Hungry City Guides

The Lowdown: Pizza Next Door in Downtown

2006-11-20T14:08:00.000-08:00

With Lamonica’s gone from Downtown and me not being impressed yet with its replacement Los Angeles New York Pizza, I am glad that just about a half a block away is some of the yummiest pizza for miles around, yes, right in Downtown. What am I talking about is Pizza Next Door on 8th right smack between Flower and Figueroa (Fig. for those of us down here).

It’s a small walk-in shop owned and operated by the same guys at Nazo’s Bakery just two doors down. When you go into Pizza Next Door, make sure you get one of the most popular items on the menu, the eggplant pizza. I know, some of you are thinking, eggplant, ugh. I’m the same way, eggplant is not my favorite vegetable, not by a long shot, but this concoction they’ve come up with is absolutely awesome, along with the eggplant it is blessed with fresh tomatoes, garlic, parmesan and mozzarella cheese. Unfortunately, due to the giant blowup of their write-up in the new edition of Hungry? Los Angeles in their window, others are on to the eggplant secret and they're often out (which is why you're looking at a photo of their pepperoni and sausage slice--also good). But if you can wait a few minutes, they'll make the eggplant pie--special for you.

Suffice to say, drop in and get one of their lunch specials, either 2 slices and a drink or a slice, small salad (decent size) and a drink for $5.75 (at the time of this printing). Try and beat that anywhere downtown.

Before I sign off, I want to thank the HungryCity crew for letting me contribute to this blog on some of the great eats I come across. I’m, by trade a bean counter, who loves cheap eats and consequently love Hungry City. Thanks guys and thank YOU Pizza Next Door.

—Cord Nuoffer

New York Pizza Next Door
806 W. 8th St. #B, Los Angeles 90017
(213) 622-6595
Mon-Sat.: 11 am-9 pm

The Lowdown: The Oinkster in Eagle Rock

2006-11-05T16:01:00.000-08:00

Turn up those Golden Oldies, hop into your T-bird, and head over to The Oinkster. Just opened on hip Colorado Boulevard in Eagle Rock, the 1950s-inspired restaurant is sure to be your new favorite--especially if you're an Oxy student living right down the street.

While Eagle Rock is now home to lots of great restaurants, The Oinkster is unique in that it manages to combine many of their best qualities under one A-line roof. A fusion of retro and modern cuisine, of fast food and gourmet dining, and of hipster and family-friendly clientele, The Oinkster has it all.

The Oinkster’s $10-and-under menu offers 1950s diner-style seasoned burgers, tasty fries, thick milkshakes, and delicious ice-cream sundaes served up in a fun, retro atmosphere. Though specializing in the era of poodle-skirts and letter-jackets, The Oinkster also manages to do credit to the tastes of the new millennium. The restaurant’s surprisingly extensive menu offers numerous alternatives to the traditional burger and fries combo, with options including Thai chicken salads, veggie burgers, and variety of bakery delights. While reviews have been mixed so far, the food quality is getting more consistent and the service is also better. But forgot the reviews: I can’t get enough of the peanut butter and jelly cupcakes!

The Oinkster also provides the option to dine in or to take that meal to-go. If you do decide to eat at The Oinkster, you’ll be more than comfortable. Red booths and glossy tables allow for 50 to eat comfortably inside, and a cute outdoor patio provides space for 50 more. Sit down and enjoy the people watching (everyone from fashionistas to school kids) or grab lunch for the office.

—Tessa Basford

The Oinkster
2005 Colorado Blvd., Eagle Rock, 90041
(323-255-oink)
for fax orders: (323) 255-6464

The Lowdown: Welcome to Azami

2006-10-07T18:57:00.000-07:00

I love Katsu-ya. But I just can't justify the trek to Studio City anymore. It’s not that the sushi palace is too far away (isn’t everything in Los Angeles?). And it’s not that the albacore and crispy onions, spicy tuna and crunchy rice, or yellowtail rolls are not fresh beyond belief. They are. It’s not even the interminable waits sandwiched between a dog kennel and a Domino’s. It’s really none of that. I will put it lightly. I have found Azami. And it's close.

A bit of web surfing one day led me to this outstanding sushi cafe on Melrose. Although Citysearch.com (ahem) may not be the most reliable source for restaurant recommendations, its audience voted Azami the best sushi in LA. So I figured a turn of the tide couldn’t hurt, and neither could a 10-minute drive from my apartment.

Entering Azami is tantamount to opening the door to your grandmother’s home on Christmas morning. The sushi chefs are two adorable women who could not be happier that you came over for dinner. They beam broad smiles while carefully and tenderly executing their art. Sitting at the sushi bar gives you a one-on-one repertoire with the chefs and great suggestions, while the ten tables offer a slower-paced meal. Take your pick, or just switch it up every time you return. Azami is small enough that it's impossible to miss any of the action, no matter where you sit.

Azami is not about the show or spectacle. The fish isn’t drowning in avocado or some gooey sauce. There are no mounts of rice hiding your dinner. There are no accompanying radishes in the shape of an extinct amphibian. The fish is pure. Simple. Elegant. Start off slow, and work your way through the intensifying silkiness of the sushi. If you do not know where to begin, the omakase, or chef’s choice, for $35-$45 is never a bad choice. Sit back with a nice cup of hot sake and peruse the menu. Label the number of pieces, kind of fish, and desired preparation (sushi, cut roll, or hand roll) on an inconspicuous white sheet and the journey begins.

Plates of spicy tuna crispies swim to every table. Azami kicks up the tuna sashimi, avocado, and lemon with jalapeno. Yet this version does not singe your taste buds. Two generous bites of silken tuna are balanced with lightly fried soy crisps. Orders of sushi (2 pieces in each order) are a reasonable $3-$5 and cut rolls are $4-$9. Specials on the board the other night were Tasmanian sea trout, Spanish mackerel, sweet shrimp, and more. When we ordered the toro, or fatty tuna belly, from the waitress, the chef herself came by only moments later to ask us which toro we preferred. Would we like the more marbled, or the leaner, subtler cut? She told us the price as well, for the difference was about $4. Is that OK with you? she asked. Her recommendation was wonderful, and her attention was sincere.

Fresh water and salt water eel are both on the menu. The fresh water has a more robust taste and hearty texture. Served warm with a touch of sauce, it is the quintessence of fine sushi.
Tasmanian sea trout has the color of light tuna, but a taste similar to that of salmon. The fish rests on the rice like a butterfly on a flower, amazingly light and gravity defying. Its lemon undertones hit your mouth first, while the texture brings your taste buds to the brink of ecstasy.

The fact that Azami’s sushi is not dressed up for a night on the town means that you can savor the freshness, the impossible lightness of the fish without the bombardment of additional flavors. The embellishments that define so many of LA’s sushi restaurants detract from the taste of the fish. Azami is different. It has a simple philosophy about sushi.

End the meal with a small bowl of green tea or red bean ice cream, and a soothing cup of tea. Now that you do not have to get in your car for eternity, perhaps walk along quirky Melrose for a bit. But before you do, flash a smile behind the sushi bar to the chefs. The smiles you’ll get in return convey their genuine happiness at having satisfied each and every customer. Not even grandma’s Christmas grin is that big.

—Camilla Warner

Azami Sushi Café
7160 Melrose Ave. (cross street Formosa Ave.)
323 939-3816
Metered street parking available

RIP: More LA Restaurant Changes/Closures

2006-10-05T15:35:00.000-07:00

The times, they are a-changin’

As you know, Los Angeles is a fast city. Stores spring up and shut down, people move away and decide they miss the SoCal sun too much and come on back. And traffic, well, maybe that could go a little bit faster. The restaurant scene is no exception. A couple of your favorite places have recently closed, and the people behind Hungry? Los Angeles thought you should know! Of course, there are others that have quickly taken their place.

Banyan Water Garden Café on 1140 Highland Ave., Manhattan Beach has merged with another restaurant to become Chakra Restaurant and Lounge. The food is “Euro Pan Asian fusion,” with dishes including satays, lemongrass ceviche, guava sake mahi mahi, and killer mojitos. No lunch. Dinner Mon-Sat, 6-10pm. Friday and Saturday, resident DJ spins until 1:30 am. Accepts all major credit cards. Parking structure close by. Chakra Restaurant and Lounge: 304 12th St., Manhattan Beach; (310) 545-1881.

Posh on Pico has ended its reign over Latin-American cuisine at 5542 W Pico Blvd., but thankfully, the restaurant is relocating (we imagine somewhere on Pico, unless a name-change is in store). Check online for opening updates, or email for information to mc@poshonpico.com

Atwater Village’s Osteria Nonni (3219 Glendale Blvd.) has closed, and has become Canele. Owners are Corina Weibel and Jane Choi of Corina’s Kitchen Inc. Check it out. Canale: 3219 Glendale Blvd., Atwater Village; (323) 666-7133.

Stacks and stacks of waffles with any topping of you like on Sunset are no longer an option, at Wacky Waffles, at least. 8226 W Sunset Blvd. has said goodbye to waffles and hello to, well, nothing at the moment.

And lastly, Madame Matisse is no longer serving dinner, sigh, but they're still open for breakfast and lunch 7:30 a.m.-3:15 p.m; 3536 W. Sunset Blvd., Silver Lake 90026 (323) 662-4862.

We hate to be the bearer of bad news, but we wouldn’t want you making the drive to find a Rite Aid in place of your favorite eatery!

—Your friends at the Hungry City Guides

The Lowdown: Osteria La Buca

2006-09-27T12:58:00.000-07:00

Buona sera! Voglio fare una prenotazione per stasera. Speak those two Italian lines when calling Osteria La Buca for reservations, and you'll discover your favorite new restaurant in Los Angeles. Mamma and her boys could not be happier that you stopped by their tiny place (does 7 tables crammed into a New York City -kitchen-sized space qualify?) on your way to Paramount Studios, and finally decided to sit down and enjoy the kind of intimate, leisurely meal that the Italians have defined. I was immediately transported back to the Old Country: The walls are decorated with posters of classic Italian films and a fan lazily swirls above hungry heads. When something isn't going right in the restaurant, they don't fake it. On a recent visit the espresso maker had a mind of its own and was plastered with a note, "Gone to espresso machine heaven."

Perhaps the reason why La Buca feels just like home is that you are dining in Mamma's kitchen. No, really. The kitchen is in full view to most, glowing behind a small bar towards the back of the restaurant. La Buca is so small, that it is impossible to tune out the melodious, fast-paced Italian spoken at a table nearby, or the encouragement from the waiters as they say, "Oh, very good choice!" to a diner only an arm's reach away. But why would you want to ignore it all? Everyone is having a great time enjoying an interesting conversation over a bottle
of wine (that they brought themselves. It's BYOB). There is the sense that everyone in the room is taking part in a truly unique L.A. experience, and that they are lucky to be lounging in Mamma's domain. It is a little bit of Padua in our very own Los Angeles.

La Buca boasts a menu that takes longer to choose from than it does to go from the Westside to the Eastside during rush hour. Oooohs and aaaaahs of "that sounds good" and "I'm getting that. Final decision. Wait, no. This?" are inevitable. Everything sounds good, because everything is good. The specials change daily, but it would be a crime to leave without trying the burrata antipasto. Creamy does not do this homemade mozzarella justice. The cheese has a texture that will make your eyes roll to the back of your head. So perfectly seasoned with salt, pepper, and olive oil, and accompanied with Italian meats and arugula, the antipasto is not to be missed. Le insalate, or salads, are supremely simple and fresh. The tricolore arrives with radicchio, endive, arugula, and generous shavings of parmesan.

And the pasta: La Buca pasta changes lives. Mamma makes it all fresh every single day, and her tender treatment of every ingredient shows in the incredible piatti. Pasta is offered "a piacere," so diners first choose a pasta from a list of chitarrine, trenette, tagliatelle, pappardelle, gnocchi, or ravioli with ricotta cheese and spinach. Next come the sauces. A note on the menu exclaims, "Don't get Mamma upset asking to change her sauces." There is no tolerance for taking the meat out here, or adding onions there. It just doesn't jive at La Buca. Savor the sauces as Mamma intended and you will not be sorry. Le salse include pomodoro, amatriciana, pesto, arrabbiata (spicy tomato), carbonara, vodka, bolognese, boscaiola (mushrooms, peas, and ham in a cream sauce), fumê (a decadent pink sauce with oregano, onions, bacon, and Scamorza cheese), burro e salvia (butter and sage), and finally a mushroom cream sauce, ai funghi. The pastas range from $11-$15 and are unlike any other pasta in the city. A pasta special of trenette al tartufo combines earthy mushrooms and rich truffle oil. The secondi piatti features meat and fish. Tagliata, sliced Piedmontese steak served on a bed of arugula and gorgonzola was available, as well as a halibut fillet baked in foil with olives, cherry tomatoes, and rosemary. Mamma uses few ingredients to compose Italian symphonies of the plate. There is a large pizza selection as well as a choice of 6 panini ($8-9) available for lunch only.

Non ci sono le parole per la tiramisù. There are no words for the tiramisu. Served in a rustic wooden bowl, the dessert elevates Mamma to culinary goddess status: She'd knock any Iron Chef to the curb. A thick layer of crème covers her version of this traditional dessert. The sponge cake absorbs the espresso without making it soggy, or overly Starbuck-ified. It is the velvety creme that steals the show. Again, Mamma's simple, yet unparalleled techniques shine through. A thin layer of cocoa is the little black dress to seal the deal. Revel in the relaxed, comfortable atmosphere that has everyone at La Buca smiling. It's like going home for a hearty meal, without having to wash any dishes.

Grazie Mamma. Grazie mille.

—Camilla Warner

5210 1/2 Melrose Ave.
Hollywood, CA 90038
(323) 462-1900

62.1992

Chains We Like (especially when it's hot!) : 21 Choices

2006-09-18T13:06:00.000-07:00

I'm that person at McDonald’s who orders a greasy hamburger, large fries, and Diet Coke—yeah, Diet Coke. Somehow, through my own twisted logic, I am able to use the Diet Coke to exculpate me from the guilt of clogging up my arteries on fast food. It is not surprising, therefore, that I became hooked on 21 Choices frozen yogurt.

21 Choices is a dessert-lover’s guiltless pleasure. Located in the heart of Old Town Pasadena, the place might best be described as a Coldstone’s Creamery that dishes up frozen yogurt rather than ice-cream. 21 Choices’ delicious, fat-free frozen yogurt serves the same purpose as a Diet Coke at McDonald’s, allowing me to justify all of the caloric toppings that I mix in. Oreo’s, Reese’s, frosted animal crackers, and brownie batter don’t seem quite so sinful when swirled through non-fat yogurt. But they do seem just as tasty.

Maybe one day I’ll actually take the healthy route at 21 Choices and order vanilla frozen yogurt with fresh strawberries and granola. For now, though, I’m more than happy sticking with my regular favorite—snickerdoodle cookie dough. You have to try it.

—Tessa Basford

85 W. Colorado Blvd.
Pasadena, CA 91103
(626) 304-9521

The Lowdown: Cassell's Hamburger's

2006-08-28T14:55:00.000-07:00

Because I work as an editor at Hungry?, people somehow expect that I go out constantly and know the name about Wolfgang Puck’s new sous chef. I suppose people sort of imagine us carrying some sort of a badge/card that identifies us as food critics. The truth is, I go out often enough, but most of the time eating out means walking over to the taco truck (thanks, Carmen) and getting a burrito. It’s not that I don’t like going out, but at four bucks per stellar burrito it’s hard to justify driving across town for a questionable one. While I try to hit all of the best spots in the book and discover new ones for upcoming editions, ultimately Carmen is just too good to me.

So, it’s a credit to the pull of a tasty burger that I finally managed to find my way to Cassell’s Hamburger’s (Hungry? Los Angeles p. 87). Located towards the northern edge of Koreatown at 6th and New Hampshire, Cassell’s is the sort of old-fashioned burger joint that you might expect to find in Pasadena, El Segundo, or the 1950s. I was hoping it would be the perfect spot to have a mellow burger and read a book before I went home and watch the Dodgers.

Man, was I right. As the patron saint of the Hungry? City Guides, Huell Howser, would say ‘oh, boy!’ The burgers here are killer. They don’t slather it in mystery sauce (you can do that yourself at the condiment bar). They just use really good, really fresh ground beef. There’s plenty of room for you and your friends (they weren’t even using their second room the day that I came by) and everyone here is incredibly friendly.

The only real surprise was the toilet seat/bidet in the bathroom. Yes, a bidet. I’m sure someone far more sophisticated than myself thinks this a godsend, but, man, it just makes me nervous. So if you’re looking for a restaurant with By the way some of the best beef in town and a bidet, Cassell’s is your place.

By the way, if there are any graphic designers in the house, it’d be pretty sweet if you could get on those badges.

—David Wegbreit

Cassell's
3266 W. 6th St.
Los Angeles 90020
(323) 480-8668

Our Shameless Self-Promotion

2006-08-28T10:08:00.000-07:00

We'll have new postings soon. In the meantime, check out a promo for our Hungry? and Thirsty? guides from Expanded Books...

Our Bad: Correx for the new edition of Hungry? Los Angeles

2006-08-22T14:22:00.000-07:00

In addition to the flubs mentioned below, here's a list of other minor details that should be noted:

1. The address for Nicolosi (Encino, CA) is 17540 Ventura Blvd., not 17450.
2. Miceli's has two locations: 1646 Las Palmas Ave. in Hollywood and 3655 W. Cahuenga Ave. in Universal City. The index for the third edition Hungry? also spells Miceli’s with an 'h', a common mistake for American's doing Italian (for the record, 'ch' in Italian is pronounced with a 'k' sound; it's broos-k-etta, not broo-sh-etta).
3. The index page listing for La Luz del Dia says page eleven but check page fifteen for the actual listing.
4. Yai Restaurant is located at 5757 Hollywood Blvd., not 5751 Hollywood Blvd.
5. Le Petit Café is located at 2842 Colorado Ave., not 2482 Colorado Ave.
6. Taste of Texas, or more accurately Nick's Taste of Texas, is not listed in the index, but it’s in the book—check out page 263.
7. Stevie's on the Strip has closed, sadly. However, you can cruise on over to the Stevie's creole place over in Encino, see page 165 of Hungry? Los Angeles (16911 Ventura Blvd.).
8. Pizzarito, located in Marina del Rey, has also closed its doors. Its traditional oven baked pizzas by the slice will be missed.
9. Although two locations still hustle and bustle (Burbank and La Crescenta), one of the three Yaki's closed its doors (Glendale).
10. Once again, three proves to be a crowd. Tarzana Armenian Grocery and Deli in Woodland Hills closed shop. Fear not, there are still two locations for those looking to get their Armenian food fix (Studio City and Tarzana).
11. If you're in Koreatown and looking for Manila pork barbecue or baby coconut milk, Jeepney Grill no longer serves your needs—we heard the took the trek to Vegas.
12. Papa Jake's Sub Shop in Brentwood has folded. To get the best Philly cheesesteak sandwich in Los Angeles, cruise on over to their Manhattan Beach and Beverly Hills locations.

We apologize for any food mishaps as a result of these errors. If you know of any other closures or details that need to be shared, please let us know.

Our Bad: Correx to Stuffed Sandwich.

2006-08-15T11:35:00.000-07:00

Every once in a while we flub up and miss something in one of the books or fail to catch an error while fact checking. For The Stuffed Sandwich in San Gabriel (Hungry? Los Angeles (3rd ed.), p. 270), please note that the address is not 1145 W. Las Tumas Dr. but 1145 E. Las Tumas Dr. and the nearest cross street is N. Vista St.—that’s right between N. San Gabriel Rd. and Rosemead Blvd.. So if you’re looking to get a sub and a brew at one of our favorite family-run joints in the SGV, please go to 1145 E. Las Tumas Dr..

Also, we’ve been made aware that, in compliance with new health department ordinances, Stuffed Sandwich no longer has sawdust on their floor. We’ve also been told that they still have a tremendous beer selection, which, in our book, is pretty cool.

When our new website comes online you can expect to see a (hopefully very small) section for these kind of flub ups, address changes, and closures. For now: courage.

In the Neighborhood: Tamales and Ice Cream

2006-08-15T09:59:00.000-07:00

My block seems to be a haven for meals on wheels. Lunch trucks are dispatched from a huge lot down the street—did you ever wonder where those things go at night? The tamale lady comes by every morning. Ahhh, the tamale lady. Nothing jolts you out of a nice deep sleep like a shrill “TAMALEEEEEEEES” at 8 a.m.. I have always been curious as to what the infamous tamale Lady is capable of, however I’m never quite ready for tamales that early (shocker). Why doesn’t she ever come at lunchtime? Plus, my roommates have forbidden me from purchasing any of said tamales in fear of her targeting our house in the future. As of now she merely passes by every morning.

Who really wants hot tamale though, anyway, when it’s reaching upwards of ninety degrees? Over these past few weeks there has been only one mobile delicacy on my mind: ice cream. I’ve grown to love my neighborhood ice cream truck. When I hear that electronic/jingly/slightly-disturbing version of ‘we wish you a merry Christmas’, I know it's summer in L.A. The ice cream man has everything you could possibly want on a hot summer day, from your classic chipwich to a chili-dusted mango pop. Of course, if you’re not into cold at the moment, my friendly neighborhood ice cream truck can offer you chips, Cheetos, and even nachos (complete with fresh jalapenos). I tend to stick with the classic chocolate chip ice cream cone, and no, I don’t worry about how long it’s been stored with the nacho cheese. Nothing satisfies more for fifty cents.

—Gina Gorman

Welcome to China. May I Take Your Order?

2006-08-11T18:02:00.000-07:00

For a frightened American traveling in a strange land, finding familiar fast food restaurants evokes the same feelings one experiences upon unexpectedly meeting an old friend.

"Why, hello McDonald's! So glad to see you are doing well! Why, yes I would like some McNuggets. So kind of you to offer."

"Starbucks? Starbucks, is that you? It is! Imagine finding you here!"

It's a nice feeling, but occasionally, there'll be that certain something about this friend that'll take you aback. A receding hairline and a pot belly on the once-prom king. An expensive Italian suit on a former stoner.

Seeing familiar Western food brands and chains in Beijing is something like that. Here's a list of random observations about variations in American food brands and chains in China.

An American who wanders into a McDonald's in China will be tempted to try several curious items on the menu. Underneath the bun of at least half of their burgers and sandwiches is a coleslaw-like mass of shredded lettuce, with bits of red cabbage mixed in for confetti-effect. There are more chicken-based foods than beef-based, as poultry is the meat preferred by the Chinese. You can order a cup full of corn instead of your usual French fries, and the apple-pie one is familiar with in the States appears in Beijing McDonald's filled with purple goo (what is that… berry-flavoring? Grape?)
Aside from the menu, what will strike Americans as especially strange about the McDonald's and the other top fast-food chain in China – KFC – is the size of these places. Most McDonald's and KFC locations are big enough to seat over 500 people, and they're usually packed to the gills around dinner time.
If you happen to find a Pizza Hut in Beijing, you'll discover it to be an upscale-establishment, with cozy booths, classy décor and romantic lighting. Want a drink? Take a look at their wine list, or order yourself up a cocktail. Gourmet pizzas include some that are stacked high with seafood and drizzled with wasabi sauce. One of the very few pizzas atop which you'll find pepperoni is the one labeled "The American Special". And for dessert, you can have tiramisu or cheesecake.
The Forbidden City is a sprawling palace complex that was home to the imperial ruling families in the Qing and Ming dynasties. The ancient location is packed with history, and is a symbol of the grandeur and splendor of Chinese architecture and aesthetics. You can find the Starbucks next to the Palace of Heavenly Purity.
Speaking of Starbucks, your favorite Frap comes in 3 sizes in China: Short (a serving so small, the average coffee-guzzling American could get away with downing 3 of these before feeling that coveted caffeine kick), Tall, and Grande. No Venti!
A walk through the aisles of a supermarket will eventually bring you to the potato chip section. You'll find Lay's and Pringle's brands, but missing will be your standard cheese flavors. Instead, pop open a bag or a tube of chips with the following: Tomato Flavor, Italian Beef Flavor, Mexican Chicken and Tomato Flavor, and a really popular one - Crispy Drumsticks Flavor. Betcha can't eat just one!

—Jennifer Chang

The Dodger Dog of Theme Parks

2006-08-01T11:43:00.000-07:00

One of my top ten, all-time favorite smells has to be the sweet fragrance of a Disneyland churro. Admittedly, some nostalgic bias taints my preference for the Spanish pastry. Growing up just twenty minutes from the House of Mouse, I spent many birthdays and summers clinging to Mickey with a churro in hand. What the Dodger Dog does for a trip to Dodger stadium, a churro does for a day at Disneyland. Having logged a number of hours in the office, I decided to venture outside for some field research at “the happiest place on earth.” Two days and seven churros later, I felt it my duty to report on the wining and dining experience.

Making the right food choices at the Disney parks depends on two factors: time and money. For example, those traveling in packs (otherwise known as families) might enjoy a more casual lunch or dinner after a chaotic day with the young ones—saving cash and energy. The twelve and under crowd will love the tropical atmosphere at the Rainforest Cafe, although it might not offer the quiet respite parents seek. With its dim candle lighting, great seafood, and echoing screams of thrill seekers nearby, the Blue Bayou charms couples looking for a romantic getaway (make reservations early in the day to ensure a table). The Wine Country Trattoria also provides a grown-up experience in the otherwise kid friendly environment. The Mission Tortilla Factory in California Adventure bakes fresh tortillas on the spot, in addition to handing out free samples. For dessert, some of my personal favorites come from the Baker’s Field Café. Their diverse menu runs the gamut from light cream puffs to rich chocolate brownies. Lastly, before you wave goodbye to your favorite cartoon hero, be sure to grab a churro or two.
—Jeremy Millington

HAL would have been a lot funnier if he took up drinking.

2006-07-31T20:24:00.000-07:00

It’s already ancient history in the blogodome, but I had a chance to check out Synchronize at Cinespace last Wednesday, but first, a quick update on our neighbors, the Liberty Grill. It would seem as if they have just received a literal truckload of Jack Daniel’s, or as Tennessee locals call it, Tennessee Milk.* Needless to say, this Hungry? editor has not been happier since his Special K Promise Pen arrived last month.

Synchronize is a monthly event at Hollywood club-come-movie-house Cinespace where sort-of-classic films play while DJ Thomas Golubic spins a live reinterpretation of the film’s soundtrack. Last month they wowed me with a slick reinterpretation of Taxi Driver—mostly hip-hop and trip-hop spins on the film’s jazzy soundtrack. I was hopelessly (and geekily) elated when they announced that the next Synchronized film would be Stanley Kubrick’s 2001: A Space Odyssey. Once again, the show was fantastic. The DJ showed amazing restraint and did not try to compete with Kubrick’s lush direction, but rather, actually complemented it. If you like movies and you like mashups, you’ll dig their next show. The low-rez samples on their Myspace just don’t do it justice.

The food at Cinespace is sort of pricey standard upscale club fare (classy pizza, salad, mini-burgers, mac ‘n’ cheese, etc.). If you’re sitting for the movie they will want you to order a meal (sort of a dinner-theater thing, I guess). Either bring someone along with the scrills to buy a meal or order a couple drinks and an appetizer. The waitresses here are incredibly friendly, but no one likes a mooch. If you get there early I would check out the hotdog spot around the corner on Ivar. I’m pretty sure it’s the same one from the Crow. You must get there before the show as this place closes up early.

I’m told that after the film the club usually reverts back to a more traditional (though always cool) atmosphere with live DJ audio/visual sets, dancing, and bands, but, alas, I have not yet seen this as my roommate, and sole means of transport, has had to work early every Thursday morning for the past couple months. Be sure to thank the Getty Trust for this.

Cinespace is located at 6356 Hollywdood Blvd., Hollywood, CA and can be reached at (323) 817-3456 or on their Myspace. Synchronize occurs the last Wednesday of every month. Next up: Lode Runner. Jack Daniel’s is always an excellent beverage, though it is not recommended while operating heavy machinery like, say, the governorship of Texas.

(*Editor’s Note: The author has never been to, nor has ever met anyone from, Tennessee. This statement implies no ill will towards those from Tennessee or those of Tennessee-an herriage, and the author acknowledges that he has no knowledge of whether locals actually call Jack Daniel’s Tennessee Whiskey “Tennessee Milk”. Though it would be pretty funny if they did.)

Sun Tea Debacle

2006-07-26T17:08:00.000-07:00

For those of you who are not familiar, sun tea is just like normal tea only the brewing occurs (drum roll) in a pitcher facing direct sunlight over a period of a few hours, instead of in boiling water over a few minutes.

I decided to make some, partly because green tea has tons of health benefits, partly because I was a little tired of drinking plain old water all the time, but mostly because using the sun’s unforgiving heat to brew myself a cool beverage seemed like some sort of indirect victory over nature. So I bought a small box of green tea from Ralph’s for three bucks, and a large glass jar from a nearby Goodwill for about the same. I’ve always liked a fairly strong cup of tea, so I estimated that about three tea bags would do the trick. I found a spot on a table in the sun, and placed a note instructing my roommates to not mess with my tea nearby. Nature would take care of the rest, so I left to run some errands.

I returned to something very strange. My tea was much more viscous than I anticipated, somewhere between water and thick orange juice. A little disappointed in myself for messing up something that seemed so simple, I googled ‘sun tea’ to see where I could have went wrong. But it turns out that my brewing methods were just fine. The problem was bacteria.

You see, direct sunlight will only heat a jug, including my container, to a measly 130 degrees Farenheit. This is warm enough for tea to brew, but not warm enough to kill off Alacligenes Viscolactis, a ropy bacteria that apparently survives on this planet by eating small bits of processed green tea leaves. My sun tea was food poisoning in a jug.

Of course this won’t happen to every batch of sun tea; people do drink it all the time. But bacteria thrive in lukewarm liquids, so drink with caution. After seeing how mine turned out I think I may just stick with the instant variety.

Nature 1, Me 0.
—Sam Leonard

Road Trip: Laguna Beach

2006-07-24T12:54:00.000-07:00

Last week I was fortunate enough to snag an extra ticket to the Pageant of the Masters at the Laguna Beach Festival of the Arts. People dress up like famous paintings — that’s all I’d heard. I really had no idea what to expect, besides that one “Arrested Development” episode, of course. I only received vague descriptions from anyone I asked about it, and it always ended up going something like, “You just have to see it. It’s pretty cool.” Well now I had the opportunity to see “it”, and my friend and I headed down to Laguna on a Monday evening to get there by the 8:30 start time, and hopefully grab some dinner first.
We arrived with plenty of time for food (miraculously, given the state of the 405). We ate at a spot down the block from where the festival was being held called Romeo Cucina. Now generally I’m not a big fan of fancy Italian restaurants, as I always think I can get the same food at my mom’s for free. But this was near the theater, and looked popular. They’ve got a nice big dining room with a full bar. Once seated, we ordered wine from the extremely friendly (albeit a bit frazzled) waiter, and perused the menu. Next to every menu section, there was an informative “LOW CARB”, “NO CARB”, or “REGULAR DIET CARB”- in case you couldn’t figure out that pasta has carbs and salad doesn’t. This is Orange County, after all-cant lose that beach body, now can we? I tried to look past the craziness at the food, and ordered.
This was NOT my mom’s cooking. In a good way. The house salad was huge, with a delicious house dressing, not your usual vinaigrette. My Spaghetti al Pennello was quite possibly the best pasta I have ever had (sorry, Mom!). Shrimps, Scallops, peppers, and the pasta itself was al dente just how I like it. Oh, and the bread. I always judge a restaurant by the bread they bring to the table (is that shallow?), and man this was good stuff. I could have eaten that for a meal (although I’m half-surprised they didn’t include a little note with the bread-“HAS CARBS”).
Onto the Pageant: its true, you just have to see it. At least once. I really can’t explain without sounding a little nuts.

Romeo Cucina
249 Broadway
Laguna Beach, CA
92651
www.romeocucina.com

Laguna Beach Festival Of The Arts
Through Sept.1
www.foapom.com

Arrested Development - RIP
—Gina Gorman

Hooray for elephants! Hooray for mojitos!

2006-07-18T11:59:00.000-07:00

It’s hot here in Los Angeles, but the Hungry? staffers had a bit of a break today. We went down to check out the recently opened Liberty Grill, and met the manager, Lori Theis. Liberty Grill is one of the new spots brought to us by Fred Eric of Fred 62 fame (p. 41 in da book). We’ve been carefully watching the construction of this place over the last months and, more recently, anxiously awaiting the opening as the smells of fresh BBQ wafted up from their test kitchen. It seems it was all well worth the wait. The place is gorgeous with two bars and a nice patio that should be perfect for a post-game, or, more likely, post-work drink. The menu seems focused on American comfort food with a typically-Fred hip twist (see: the Berzerkley sandwich) and with ambiance to match. When you’re there be sure to check out the photos of strange American roadside attractions, especially the milk pail shaped milkshake stand.

Even better, we saw elephants. And horses too. Yes, from the corner window of our office we watched a mini elephant parade march down 11th St. It would seem that the circus is in town. Our discovery sparked a discussion on the merits of the zoo. The conclusions were as follows:

1) We all like peanuts
2) We are also rather fond of elephants and acrobats.
3) The potential mistreatment of cute and/or sad animals is deplorable.
4) Clowns are sometimes scary. They are generally not very funny.

So, even though the Liberty Grill is decidedly not cooler than watching elephants we’re already fans. With weather like this we can’t wait to try one of their bars. Hotel Figueroa will your mojito stand up?

Coming soon…the great mojito challenge!

LA's Other Brown Haze: Tap Water

2006-07-14T14:36:00.000-07:00

The greatest fuel any human can put in their body is generally the most overlooked on any menu—water. It might not be the sexiest or most thrilling item served during a night out, but water can make or break a meal. One friend of mine, who waits tables at an unnamed restaurant chain, recently recounted a tale of a customer concerned about “LA death water.” Said customer assumed the kitchen came equipped with water filters to protect its clientele. As anyone living in the city can tell you, coming home after a week’s vacation means clearing out the murky water stored in your pipes before cooking or cleaning. When it comes to ordering water at restaurants, there are a few keys to enjoying your water while avoiding the murk.

First, ninety-nine percent of restaurants do not filter their tap water. Classy establishments may offer bottled water, but filtering the free water flowing from the city treatment plants is a rarity. Tip number two on ordering water: get your water ice free if you want to gauge its true taste. The chill of ice water masks any bizarre flavorings in a glass of H2O. Water without ice also adds a bit of European style and sophistication to the dining experience. Lastly, take advantage of restaurants that provide a quality bottled water. I don’t mean the usual Crystal Geyser or Dasani, or even atrociously priced fizzy water. Nothing satisfies so subtly as smooth, clean French or Italian bottled water. For a less expensive Eastern treat, give cucumber water a shot some time (Mr. HANA at Westfield Century City). It’s not an every night of the week decision, but once in a while it gives your body a break from the red, white, and amber. You can even drive home safely without guessing how many margaritas equals a DUI.
—Jeremy Millington

Pioneertown Landmark Saved by Firefighters!

2006-07-14T13:58:00.000-07:00

It's fire season, folks, and as much as we live in denial about it, every year it comes, and this year some of our neighbors aren't going home--so keep 'em in your thoughts. This year it hit early in the desert near Yucca Valley, in a place called Pioneertown, an outpost Hollywood built in the 1940s as a location for Gene Autry, the Cisco Kid, and a horde of Westerns.

We've been to Pioneertown a handful of times and are particularly fond of it's self-appointed city center, Pappy & Harriet's on the downtown drag. A cool and dark oasis from the hot hot hot summer sun, it also boasts a meat-lovers barbecue menu, a great bar, and live music from a lotta country, rockabilly, and bluegrass performers that you Have heard of.

Miraculously, Pappy & Harriet's and most of downtown Pioneertown was saved by our favorite superheroes, firefighters, who are apparently now fighting two large blazes that are promising to combine.

Sadly, many Pioneertown residences didn't make it. Once the fire passes, they're gonna need some business to rebuild their homes and city revenues, so take a side trip from the Springs or your Cabazon fix, or plan a getaway and visit Pappy & Harriet's Palace in Pioneertown, right next to Yucca Valley.

Diary of a Bad Idea Rethought

2006-07-10T22:58:00.000-07:00

For a few years there, we loved the occasional visit to Sushi of Naples in Pasadena: A pleasant and reliable place to meet after work for some sushi, sake and Kirin Ichiban on tap--mostly sake and Kirin. Then...a new owner took over. After a slapdash remodel that blanketed the floors with casino-style carpeting and some radical menu changes, it was painful to watch our favorite servers force a smile as they waited on fewer and fewer tables when the regulars just stopped stopping by. In fact, the only one left smiling was their iconic etched fish.

But we missed their Mardi Gras rolls, a delectable combination of crab, rock shrimp, albacore, avocado, chili sauce and deep fried onions, so we'd keep stopping in for a fix. The menu had gone "gourmet" and not in a good way--but the sushi chefs were still there, so our beloved concoction was safe--even if we did have to look at that hideous carpet.

With the polish off the remodel and the vulgar carpet fading, we're glad to report tables are filling up again-with regulars. The menu is slowly eeking back to its former, and better, self and the staff is smiling again. Guess the customers are sometimes right.

The 2006 List

2006-01-10T11:26:00.000-08:00

The 2006 List
Nine Trends We’d Like to See in Ought Six
(in no particular order)

1. Stepping it up from Two Buck Chuck and trying affordable Australian and Chilean wines
2. Knowing that a nice bottle of non-vintage true-French champagne is a great treat to keep in the back of the fridge, but a case of domestic beer for a night with close friends and great music is a must.
3. Mixing quality cheese with fresh vegetables or fruit
4. Going to farmers market for breakfast or lunch.
5. Listening to good dining music (extra points if it’s live).
6. Knowing that carbs aren’t dead yet.
7. Post-bar taco runs (in fact, all taco runs).
8. Remembering that while tea was cool last year, flavorful organic coffee will never go out of style
9. The return of the sandwich!

Why I Love L.A....

2005-12-12T15:46:00.000-08:00

Why I Love L.A.

Reason #43052: Pink’s Hot Dogs

Hot, chewy, and about as “real” as anything in this town, Pink’s Hot Dogs (Hungry? Los Angeles, p. 69) are a bona-fide L.A. institution. Pink’s is the L.A. experience and if you don’t see a celebrity strutting their stuff down Melrose while you’re in line (and you’ll have plenty of time to look around with a twenty minute wait on a good afternoon), you’re bound to see one on the 8x10s that line the wall. But only the truly blessed celeb are honored with their very own hot dogs like the Huell Dog, named after our own local TV legend, Huell Howser, or the Ozzie Dog, named after hard-rocker-come-incoherent-mumbler Ozzie Osborne.

But my love of Pink’s doesn’t come from any of the cleverly named ‘dogs, but from the true L.A. ambience of this Hollywood pillar. As I waited in the parking lot, stomach filled with the beyond-tref Mulholland Dog--a foot-long hotdog smothered in sautéed mushrooms, bacon, nacho cheese, and jalapenos--a balding avuncular man, doubtlessly development exec, stood next to me and said, “You know, if they ever need someone to play a young John Stamos. They should call you.” Not thinking that it was strange that this man, whom I had never met before, spoke to me with such familiarity, or that he suggested that I look like TV’s Uncle Jesse, I thanked the man and we parted.

This is, after all, Los Angeles.

For Restaurants Affected by Hurricane Katrina

2005-10-02T20:57:00.000-07:00

There's a message board for you to exchange information.
http://katrina.guestbridge.net/